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Lao Roots
by Fleur Brofos Asmussen
1997. 260 pp., richly illustrated with 86 historical photographs.
21.5 X 15.2 cm., Softbound.
ISBN-10: 974-8299-27-9 $23.00
ISBN-13: 978-974-8299-27-3
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Lao Roots
Book review by David Snellgrove (Siam
Society Journal, date unknown)
The motive and effective starting-point for this book occurs in 1950 when
the author must have been about 22 years old. It was only then that her
mother, Irene Louise Hauff Brofos, revealed to her three children the origins
of her birth, namely that she was the natural child, born in 1901, of a
Laotian woman named Sau Boun Mao, and had been fathered by their grandfather,
Peter Hauff, an adventurous trader who had spent the active part of his
life (from 1890 to 1928) in Indo-China, primarily in Saigon and Laos. Earlier
in 1896 he had fathered another daughter, later known as "Maud Sofie
Hauff", by a Vietnamese woman named Chi-Thin. Fleur Brofos refers
to this revelation as a "bombshell" and she becomes determined
to discover all she can concerning her part-Laotian origins. Thus there
develops a consuming interest in the life of her grandfather Peter Hauff,
as now recorded in this book. She uses all available literary sources as
well as such personal reminiscences as can be gleaned from the few survivors
who had known him personally.
The book falls naturally into two parts. The first,
Fleur's story, which tells of many family events, including finally accounts
of the eventual visits to Laos. The first was made by her sister Bambi
and husband Serge Gabriel in 1967; this was followed by a brief visit by
Fleur herself soon after Christmas 1969 accompanied by her sister, and
finally a substantial visit in 1990 when Fleur was able to meet all her
distant Laotian relatives. These are primarily the two daughters of her
grandmother Sau Boun Mao who had long since passed away. Both are the offspring
of her local marriage to a certain Thit Phoua and thus are half-sisters
of Fleur's mother. Sau Boun Mao married only after Peter Hauff's visit
to Norway in 1905, when he married a Scandinavian wife. Having returned
to Saigon with his wife, he retrieved his two daughters from Laos, namely
Fleur's mother-to be, now named "Irene Louise Hauff" and her
half-sister, now named "Maud Sofie Hauff". From then on they
were brought up as though they were the legitimate offspring of their father.
This unusual "nuclear family" of four lived for a short while
in Saigon where every effort was made to distance the two daughters from
their Vietnamese and Laotian origins. The two girls were educated in Europe
from 1908 onwards. Fleur questions in the book why her grandfather failed
to bring his natural wife Sau Boun Mao back to Norway (instead of marrying
a Scandinavian wife) although he subsequently brought the two girls, thus
separating the newly named "Irene Louise" from her mother for
ever. As just noted above, Sau Boun Mao married locally soon after his
departure, and gave birth to the two daughters, who were subsequently heralded
as Fleur's nearest Lao relatives by this resolute young grand-daughter
of his, viz, the author of this book. It is she who sets about restoring
the links between the adventurous years of her grandfather's youth and
his later more settled life. The Scandinavian marriage, however, produced
no offspring and does not appear to have been a very happy one. Peter Hauff
never abandoned in his thoughts his first wife Sao Boun Ma. If this brief
summary seems bewildering, one will realize how essential are the "family-trees"
at the end of the book for following the full account.
There is an obvious conflict in Peter Hauff's life
between his ready adaptability to Asian ways of life and the constraints
that were placed upon him by social prejudices in Europe at the beginning
of the 20th century. His close relatives at home would have found it utterly
unsuitable for him to marry formally a Laotian wife and bring her back
to Norway, but it was considered suitable to bring the two daughters on
the condition that they were educated and brought up as young European
ladies. This had a profound psychological effect upon Fleur's mother who
concealed her real origins from her three children until 1950 when they
were considered old enough to take the "shock". This may have
been a "bombshell", but there was nothing socially scandalous
for them in this matter. Fortunately ideas of racial relationships began
to change during the course of the 20th century, especially after the 2nd
World War. However, Fleur's mother persisted in her aloofness from everyone
and everything Laotian until the end of her days.
We now come to the second part of the book, certainly
the most interesting one, entitled "Grandfather Peter Hauff's story".
This is based upon a manuscript which Peter Hauff produced about the year
1930. In this he recorded the adventures, reminiscences and observations
of his life in Indochina, producing three versions in Norwegian, English
and French. In 1936 he tried to get it published in Norway with some such
title as "Mekhong: a Norwegian Trader's experiences in Indochina,"
but it was rejected as concerning too remote a country to be of general
interest. It is thus to the undoubted credit of Mr Hallward Kuloy of the
Orchid Press to have agreed to publish this work now that it has been worked
on by Fleur Brofos Asmussen. Apart from her grandfather's manuscript, she
includes other source-materials as well as many illustrations from old
photographs which happily came to hand. Peter Hauff also maintained a very
detailed diary of his daily doings, but regrettably this was burned by
his wife, Fleur's mother, immediately after his death. This diary surely
included references to his relationships with local women in Indochina
and thus to Fleur's own birth. At the same time it must have contained
much more of far greater interest and its destruction is much to be regretted.
Peter Hauff was a remarkable man, who as trader and man of business, maintained
an active and sympathetic interest in local life while seeing as much as
he could of local places.
He was born in Norway in 1873, son of a much-travelled
ship's captain, and after serving a business apprenticeship in London at
the age of 17 to 18, he sailed from Marseilles to Saigon in 1873/4. Here
he found employment with a local trading company and rapidly adapted to
local life. It is interesting to note that he found Malay (as throughout
the Dutch East Indies of that period) the most useful language for his
work rather than the local Annamese. He made a name for himself by provisioning
some Russian naval ships which arrived in the harbour, for which he was
paid in gold, the preferred currency of the times (and in fact still often
used throughout Indochina). He built a small house for himself between
Saigon and the nearby mainly Chinese trading city of Cho Lon. He had good
relationships with the French (who by 1884 had established their authority
over the whole of Vietnam and Cambodia) as well as with the Siamese (Thai)
and Cambodian officials, with whom he made contact in the course of his
trading ventures. These followed mainly the course of the Mekong River
from its wide-spread delta in Vietnam for a thousand kilometres and more
northwards to Laos. This river also serves as the boundary between Laos
and Cambodia, and then further north as the boundary between Laos and Thailand.
The route up the Mekong had been opened up by an exploratory French expedition
lasting just over two years (5th June 1866 to 29th June 1868). The driving
spirit of this extraordinary adventure was Francis Garnier, second in command,
becoming the leader following upon the death of Commander Doudart de Lagrée
at Hui-tse in Yunnan. For a succinct account see Milton Osborne, "Francis
Garnier (1839-1873), Explorer of the Mekong River" in Explorers of
South-east Asia, Six Lives, edited by V.T.King, OUP Kuala Lumpur 1995.
This account, which records the great difficulties of ascending the Mekong,
impossible to navigate in sections because of rapids and waterfalls, helps
in placing the journeys of Peter Hauff in a fair perspective. On his first
journey up the Mekong in April 1898, primarily to investigate the possibilities
of trade, he reached as far as southern Laos. The steamer could only go
as far as Kratie, whence the Sambor rapids had to be manoevred in small
boats. At Stung Treng (still in eastern Cambodia) one transferred to a
small steamer as far as Khone. Here the French had built a railway four
miles long, capable of transporting two small steamers, in order to pass
the very worst stretch of rapids. Thence a small steamer took one on to
Kong, the chief settlement in South Laos. Peter Hauff travelled some further
100 miles up the river by the same type of transport to Don Co, an island
seemingly near Pakxe as shown on present-day maps. From here he returned
to Saigon, satisfied with this exploratory visit and determined to pioneer
a trading venture to Laos. He found a partner in Hans Rudolf Feesch of
Swiss nationality, and from here on the book contains excepts from the
personal observations of his partner, interspersed with Peter Hauff's running
account. This adds even more local interest to Hauff's second journey up
the Mekong a year later, but variations in place-names make it rather more
difficult to follow the text accurately. This is no fault of the author,
as she can only reproduce place-names as found in her sources. Does Pak
Moun (presumably French spelling for Mun with reference to the River Mun)
corrrespond to Pakxe? Here Don Có of Hauff's earlier account is
just south of Pak Moun. This would seem to be so, for having completed
their trading at this place they set out of a subsidiary trading venture
up to Mun River (written Se Moun) to Ubon Ratchasima in Thailand, where
they were received by the local Thai governor. After this side-excursion
they continued up the Mekong to Ventiane, the capital of Laos, arriving
there three and a half months after leaving Saigon. Here they built a house
which become the centre of their subsequent trading throughout the whole
area, the trading eventually extended as far north as Luang Prabang. Subsequently
with help of his brother in London, Hauff designed a steamer suitable for
travelling up the Mekong and with long delays this eventually reached Saigon
in 1902.
However, the attempt to travel up the river with
this vessel proved abortive. Unable to proceed beyond Khong he let it out
to the French authorities and continued northwards by the normal means.
From Pak Moun he made another visit to Ubon Ratchasima at the request of
the French consul there, and on his return he found himself in the midst
of the turmoil and destruction of property and life caused by the so-called
"Holy Men's Rebellion". This started as a form of religious protest
against the modernizing changes which were then taking place in Thailand
as the result of contact with the outside world. However, like all such
popular movements, it rapidly developed into an excuse for banditry and
pillage. Hauff bravely continued his journey northwards to Ventiane, anxious
for the safely of his colleague Feesch, who proved to be very ill, as well
for their property at this their main base of operations. He found his
colleague very ill indeed and their business affairs in a very bad way.
Money paid out in advance for expected articles of trade was lost in the
general chaos because many of their sub-contractors had either fled or
been killed. As an unexpected but welcome form of compensation, he received
an order from a firm in Saigon to deal with a large supply of teak timber
which had been bought from the Second King of Luang Prabang. This had to
be floated down the Mekong from Luang Prabang to Saigon. This was an enormous
task, accomplished by heroic determination, and a whole chapter is devoted
to this particular exploit. Presumably it assisted him financially when
so much else was lost. In the midst of this operation he learned that Feesch
had died in Ventiane and all their property there had been auctioned off.
This effectively put an end to the trading ventures in Laos. Hauff returned
to Norway and married, as already related above. When he later settled
in Saigon as director of a tile and mosaic factory, there was little scope
for more adventure. Thus his manuscript, as quoted in this book, concerns
mainly the years 1894 to 1905.
Apart from detailed accounts of journeys up and
down the Mekong, this manuscript contains interesting descriptions of local
conditions, of customs and festivals as well as of the practice of Buddhism
in Laos. He was a remarkable man, loyal in his personal relationships,
resolute and brave, often seeking adventure for its own sake, such as his
witnessing the bombardment of Santa Barbara during the Spanish-American
war in the Philippines. This happened at the mere suggestion of a friend
who was taking a load of rice to the island of Panay. At the same time
his profound religious sensibility, more Buddhist than Christian, is evident.
He visited the great Lao-style Buddhist shrine at Nakhon Phanom, one of
the most sacred places in Thailand, noting various legends as well as its
dilapidated condition (p.168). In fact it collapsed in 1975 but was soon
restored to its now resplendent condition by the Fine Arts Department of
the Thai Government. For mere interest he went to neighbouring Cambodia,
already a French protectorate since 1863, and gives succinct accounts of
his visits to Phnom Penh and to Angkor (Siem Reap). One might well envy
the possibility of such a visit to Angkor Vat and Angkor Thom in the early
20th century, when the French authorities were beginning to interest themselves
in their conservation and long before they suffered the depredations of
later times (especially the period 1970 to almost the present day). He
made four visits there in 1911, 1919, 1928 and 1929. He speaks well of
the Cambodians whom he preferred to the Vietnamese. The tranquillity of
Angkor Vat and the part-ruined temples of Angkor Thom, where no trading
interests were involved, seem to have exercized a permanent attraction
upon Peter Hauff. He made his fourth and last visit there just before returning
finally to Europe in 1929. Here he settled eventually in the south of France,
in due course enduring like so many others the dangers and privations of
the German occupation during the war years of 1940-45. He died, much impoverished
as the result of the war, in France in 1951.
As an overall criticism of this book, so skilfully
compiled by his granddaughter, I note that the title of the book "Lao
Roots" seems to apply mainly to her subsequent efforts to find her
Laotian relatives. Interesting as this may be, it represents the lesser
part of the book. There should have been at least a sub-title such as "My
grandfather's life in Indochina" or even as Peter Hauff himself wished,
namely "A Norwegian Trader's Experiences in Indochina". The reviewer
would certainly have preferred this as the main title.
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